Although Jane Hading (1859–1940), Lily Elsie (1886–1962), and Billie Burke (1884–1970) gained fame as stage actresses, their popular appeal also rested on their ability to cultivate a glamorous appearance. Their careers illustrate the early transformation of actresses into marketable commodities whose celebrity status depended on the consumption of their images. This celebrity, in turn, was used to market an array of beauty and fashion goods to women striving to emulate them.
The three women featured in Staging Fashion exemplify the factors that ensured success for 20th-century actresses. Each of these women was dressed by a leading couturier (or several couturiers), both onstage and offstage. In major cities such as New York, Paris, and London, actresses depended on exquisite, custom-made gowns both to secure principal roles and to maintain popularity. Their physical beauty, which was consistent with elite notions of class and race, was depicted on postcards and in popular fashion and theatre magazines and newspapers. Finally, these actresses developed distinct “personalities,” which were conveyed by their stage roles and in numerous photos and articles.
Susan Weber
Editor’s Note and Acknowledgments
Selected Chronology: Theater, Fashion, and Culture. France, Great Britain, and the United States
Compiled by BGC Graduate Students
Staging Fashion, 1880-1920
Michele Majer
1. Dangerous and Influential Women: Actresses in Nineteenth-Century French Culture
Lenard R. Berlanstein
2. Lucile and the Theatricalization of Fashion
Sheila Stowell
3. Stylish Effervescence: Billie Burke and the Rise of the Fashionable Broadway Star
Marlis Schweitzer
Catalogue: The Actresses
Michele Majer with Maude Bass-Krueger, William DeGregorio, and Rebecca Perry
I. Jane Hadin
II. Lily Elsie
III. Billie Burke
Checklist of the Exhibition
Selected Performances
Compiled by BGC Graduate Students
Bibliography
Index
Assistant Professor at the Bard Graduate Center
Lenard R. Berlanstein
Commonwealth Professor of History at the University of Virginia
Marlis Schweitzer
Associate Professor of Theatre Studies at York University
Sheila Stowell
Free-lance producer and theater historian